Like most Italian tailors, Sartoria Seminara is hidden away. There isn’t any Savile Row grand entrance, only a title and a buzzer and a brief stroll up a flight of darkish stairs.
The impact is all of the larger as a result of this entrance is on By way of dei Calzaiuoli, a number of metres from the Duomo in Florence, and on any day in season, subsequently from a whole lot of vivid, loud vacationers.
And Seminara is an particularly good bolthole. The handful of rooms on the primary flooring has been a tailor’s store since 1924, virtually 100 years; Giuseppe Seminara took over the area in 1957 and it has been a tailor’s ever since.
The becoming room is especially pleasing. Giant, high-ceilinged, dominated by a set of mirrors that takes up the whole lot of 1 wall. As a buyer, it will possibly’t assist make you’re feeling actually somewhat vital.
“My father was the grasp, that is his store,” says Gianni Seminara (beneath), which appears virtually impossibly modest, given he himself is on the verge of retirement, and has been on this area that complete time.
But it surely does convey up the subject of succession, which is vital. A cause I wished to cowl Seminara – amongst all the opposite small Italian tailors nonetheless in existence – is that Gianni is now working with Vittorio Salino, a youthful tailor who was beforehand at Liverano, and is eager to proceed the traditions.
Vittorio was launched to Gianni by a shopper, and has been working the atelier for simply over a yr. He’d like to take over the enterprise some day, however they’re taking it slowly: for the second they seek advice from it as a “collaboration”.
Vittorio labored as a coatmaker at Liverano, and at Gallo in Rome, so he’s been studying the reducing facet since he arrange on his personal, and Gianni has been invaluable.
“The toughest factor about being a younger tailor is coping with uncommon conditions – physique sorts, uncommon requests,” he says. “You study the fundamentals and refine them and also you develop a reduce that you simply actually like, however then somebody comes alongside that provides you an issue you’ve by no means confronted,” he says. “It’s good having Gianni to show to, with all his expertise.”
Vittorio (beneath) now has a younger assistant (Dutch, enthusiastic, a PS reader) himself, nevertheless it wasn’t simple at the beginning: “It may be laborious since you want various funding on your personal area. That’s another approach it’s been nice being right here with Gianni.”
The Seminara reduce has a lot in widespread with different Florentine tailors – the pretty mushy make, the straight lapel, the dearth of a entrance dart. However there are small variations.
The facet seam is just not as formed ahead, for instance, and the breast pocket has a bit of extra curve. The shoulder is just not that prolonged and feels extra pure, with only a contact of rollino within the sleevehead.
There are similarities with Corcos, who labored right here beneath Gianni for 3 years, though the ending at Corcos is at a somewhat increased stage, with the easier Seminiara utilizing machine-padded collars.
“Total I feel it feels very pure, easy and simple,” says Max Papier (beneath), who works at The Armoury in New York and is a buyer of Seminara.
Each Max and Elliot Hammer, a designer additionally working with The Armoury, are mates and have had items made by Seminara. Max can also be at present having a jacket made with Vittorio.
“I discovered one thing somewhat completely different within the type right here, one thing very human,” feedback Vittorio, referring to the mushy form of Gianni’s jackets and his want to make use of as little padding as potential.
“Some tailors which have left Liverano are doing the identical type, and the promoting level can really feel prefer it’s simply ‘the identical factor however cheaper’,” he provides. “I had a shopper ask me to make your tweed ulster coat, for instance, Simon, and I didn’t wish to do this. If somebody is coming to you simply since you’re a less expensive model of one thing else, you’ll by no means construct something.”
Vittorio is referring to my Liverano coat, which I’ve additionally (flatteringly) seen at different Florentine tailors within the PS Harris Tweed.
One authentic design that caught my eye at Seminara was the “capote” pictured above. This was initially a request from Franco Minucci of Tie Your Tie, who wished a brief coat he might put on over a jacket, however with out the stiffness of a pea coat.
The end result, in cashmere or a wool/cashmere mix, has been made a very good few instances for different shoppers since.
I favored the collar and lapel form, though was a bit of not sure concerning the buttoning place and the softness of the physique. One to strive once more after I’m again in Florence in January, maybe.
Gianni is kind of cheap, not simply in comparison with Liverano however to Florentine bespoke usually. His fits begin at €2700 and the cashmere capote prices €3000. Primarily, Gianni has no curiosity, now, in increased costs or making an attempt to make use of these to construct a sustainable enterprise. Vittorio is completely different and has to cost a bit of extra: €3000 for a swimsuit and €2200 for a jacket (in Italy).
However then Vittorio is the one carrying bespoke tailoring forwards, and maybe the one establishing longer-term relationships together with his new prospects. I additionally admire his enthusiasm and progressiveness. He’s actively making an attempt to get younger individuals concerned within the enterprise, together with working with the Accademia Nazionale dei Sartori in Rome, for instance, to extend its pupil numbers. And he is travelling to completely different locations – to Antwerp and to Zurich.
My greatest and finest needs to them each. I’m positive I’ll be again in January, if solely to absorb the ambiance of a full century of tailoring, and take a espresso gazing out of the window on the busy By way of dei Calzaiuoli beneath.
Sartoria Seminara
@sartoriaseminara
Vittorio Salino
@vittorio_salino
Trunk reveals: Antwerp 15-18 September and Zurich 13-16 October
By way of dei Calzaiuoli, 10
Florence, Italy
