In Mexico, Farmers No Longer Need to Harvest Agave Worms

“Oh, look, this one is hiding,” Isela Islas Montiel says as she digs into the tiny tunnels on the backside of a rotting agave leaf. Like youngsters in a schoolyard, we wait as cherry-red chinicuil worms, the larvae of the Comadia redtenbacheri moth, are pulled from their hiding locations. “They feed on the magueys they usually assault the weakest and smallest,” Montiel explains, gingerly pulling the worms from their burrows with the needle-like tip of a maguey leaf. Cautious to not lower or harm the worms, she drops them one after the other in a cone original from a young agave leaf.

The sky is a transparent, cool blue on the Saniz farm within the far northwestern tip of Mexico’s Tlaxcala state, the place Montiel and her husband Alejandro Sánchez Acosta develop wheat, corn, and barley alongside their major crop, agave, which they principally use to supply pulque, comprised of fermented sap. The morning rain has lastly let up and the solar glints off the encircling countryside that may be seen for miles from the farm’s hilltop place. On each facet of us are rows of agaves, additionally known as maguey, their languid leaves arching gently towards the sky till their weight pulls them downward. There are 12,000 agave vegetation on the Saniz farm; 40,000 in the event you depend hijuelos, child magueys.

We’re right here to dig for worms, however this isn’t just a few vacationer attraction; these little devils are a key ingredient in a number of regional dishes. “In actuality they’re an infestation,” says Montiel, “however an infestation which you could eat.” When the larvae hatch every September, Acosta and Montiel accumulate a handful at a time, not solely as a result of they benefit from the distinctive style — a smoky, oily pungency — but in addition as a result of they think about the act of harvesting and consuming the worms an essential a part of the standard eating regimen of their households. They fry the worms in their very own fats to get them able to grind for salsa or use them to garnish a dish that Acosta describes as excellent hangover meals: “It’s a stew made with a plant known as malva, a wild inexperienced. We cook dinner them with squash blossoms, zucchini, uncooked fava beans after which throw the worms on prime. That, and a glass of pulque, and you might be all set.”

“One of the crucial on a regular basis methods of utilizing the chinicuiles is making the well-known and conventional worm salt,” says Irad Santacruz Arciniega, a neighborhood chef in Tlaxcala, who notes that consuming bugs has lengthy been aside of the Mesoamerican eating regimen, going again at the least a millennium. “One other is simply to fry them or toast them in their very own fats, put them in a tortilla, and make a taco. [Some people make] salsas de chinicuiles or salsa borrachas which have tomatillos, onion, chile, and typically pulque.”

Like Santacruz, many cooks acknowledge the potential of cooking with chinicuiles. Their curiosity is two-fold: utilizing an endemic ingredient that shines a highlight on conventional cooking, and incorporating the worms into nouveau dishes to wow and shock diners. You gained’t discover chinicuiles at your nook taco stand simply but, however worms, together with different native bugs, are on the radars of the nation’s extra experimental kitchens. “In some eating places I’ve seen them as garnishes atop guacamole or [mixed] in butter after which there are eating places which are utilizing them in desserts, with chocolate, in bonbons and that’s a brand new technique to eat them,” Santacruz says. The worms are lining up with some trendy eating tendencies as effectively. “The consumption of the chinicuiles can also be trendy due to the rise of mezcal, since one of the best ways to enhance an excellent mezcal is with worm salt,” Santacruz provides. “They’re additionally a superfood, like all bugs, and are valued for his or her dietary content material. I feel that generally, eco-friendly meals and components, free from chemical substances and pesticides, [are becoming more popular].”

However at the same time as chinicuiles have change into extra common amongst cooks, many farmers are dropping curiosity, each within the worms and within the conventional harvesting practices they characterize. Way back to Montiel and Acosta can keep in mind, their households planted and processed agave right here. A number of miles from their land are the Tecoaque archaeological ruins, the place excavations point out that folks on this area have been processing agave and consuming pulque for over a millennium. “Right here on this city, everybody have been tlachiqueros,” the Nahuatl phrase for pulque-makers. “Everybody knew tips on how to scrape the vegetation. Everybody made pulque. However that era has began to die out,” says Acosta. “There are just a few of us left that know tips on how to work with maguey. Sadly the younger individuals don’t wish to study. This work, rising maguey, will finally disappear.” There are actually solely three native farms that also develop agave along with Saniz.

Harvesting worms requires quite a lot of work. Farmers should determine infested vegetation by their yellow leaves, pull them from the earth, gently crack them open on the root, and retrieve worms which have burrowed into the bottom. Throughout our hunt, we discover about 20 chinicuil worms in two vegetation, sufficient for a salsa, says Montiel, however not a lot else. In the event that they have to be saved for a later date they’re both sauteed and saved within the fridge or frozen, because it’s nearly not possible to retailer them alive for quite a lot of hours.

The worm hunt is just one step within the decades-long work concerned in planting, elevating, and harvesting maguey. Crops asexually produce hijuelos, which have to be replanted to supply one other era. When the vegetation attain round 4 years outdated they are often pruned for pencas, fresh-cut, barely toasted maguey leaves that swaddle hunks of lamb or goat meat to make comfortable, buttery barbacoa. Because the farm takes benefit of each stage of the vegetation’ development, pencas are lower conservatively to keep up every plant’s integrity because it grows. They’ll additionally harvest a waxed paper-like membrane that covers the leaves, known as mixiote, used for the dish of the identical identify, consisting of small steamed packets of meat and chile sauce. As soon as the agaves are between 10 and 12 years outdated, Acosta “neuters” the plant by eradicating its coronary heart, then scrapes the outlet for a number of months to supply the plant’s sap, aguamiel — actually, “honey water,” which could be loved straight, boiled into agave honey (as Montiel does), or fermented into pulque. After that the plant dies, however dying just isn’t the top. The Saniz farm dries the leaves and piñas for firewood, animal feed, or natural fertilizer.

All that work doesn’t instantly yield a revenue. prospects do attain out to Acosta, however they typically fail to know the worth of the worms and the work they require. “This man from Monterrey known as me and stated, ‘You will have chinicuiles?’ And I stated, ‘Yeah, they price 2,500 pesos,’” or about $150, Acosta recollects. “And he’s like, ‘What? No approach! I’ll provide you with 800 pesos.’ And I stated, ‘Then go discover them some place else.’” They’re removed from a daily earnings supply for the farm.

“In Tlaxcala delicacies there’s a mole, one of many area’s most celebrated, and one of the vital costly due to the quantity of worms it requires,” Santacruz says, however the chef wouldn’t have it some other approach. A part of the worms’ exclusivity and worth is exactly their seasonality; these are a limited-edition delicacy, typically obtainable for a brief window from the center of August to the top of September. “This new wave of recognition helps of us like Montiel and Acosta cost a fairer worth, however I feel we’ve to proceed the work of informing and educating that tendencies can imply that components like this are overproduced or exploited. And the overconsumption of components like this will carry dysfunction to the ecosystem. It’s so nice that individuals are consuming them, making an attempt them, however we’ve to do it in a rational approach.”

Acosta and Montiel are hoping that visits like ours will present some additional earnings, however even when they’ll’t make a lot revenue off the worms, there are different potential upsides. The chinicuiles act as a terrific mascot for agave farming to outsiders, elevating the picture of agave. They might additionally assist flip the tide inside the group, reminding a few of their neighbors of the benefits of maguey past a fast buck.

Locals say they’re below stress from bigger financial pursuits to surrender agave farming and pulque manufacturing. Some really feel pressured to chop down agave in favor of quick-yield crops like barley and GMO corn. Acosta and Montiel have heard of others clearing land to create pass-throughs for fuel pipelines, which crisscross the area. Acosta believes his neighbors are satisfied that not solely is agave manufacturing not worthwhile, but in addition socially beneath them. “They suppose it’s degrading,” says Acosta.

“They consider it’s the work of slaves,” Montiel provides. “[They say], why would I be a tlachiquero? They’re ashamed [of the work].”

It’s not only a matter of heritage. Montiel and Acosta have watched how clear-cutting has impacted the native ecology over their lifetime. Gazing throughout an enormous expanse of orderly rows of agave, Acosta explains that with out the vegetation the farm’s soil would erode quickly from the wind and intense rain from Could to October. He factors to distant patches of barren land the place magueys have been cleared for comparability. The fast crops which have changed maguey manufacturing like barley and corn aren’t drought-resistant and don’t give a lot again to the earth they develop in.

“Maguey counteracts the forces of local weather change,” says Montiel. “It withstands drought, gives the earth with vital vitamins, and transforms carbon dioxide into oxygen, much more so than timber.”

In keeping with Laura Trejo Hernández, a Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México researcher investigating agave biodiversity in Tlaxcala, the magueys additionally present a habitat for reptiles, amphibians, bugs, and mushrooms. In addition they create limitations round crops that preserve grazing animals out and function a windbreak. “[Clear-cutting] agaves means a lack of biodiversity and ecosystemic providers that present high quality of life and wellbeing to people and different organisms,” says Trejo. “They’re extraordinarily ecologically essential each within the wild and in conventional agricultural programs.”

Some farmers additionally use pesticides to focus on pests like picudos del maguey, a form of weevil that may devastate a complete crop. However the weevils have solely change into an issue, Acosta says, as a result of farmers used to gather their larvae, nixtamal worms, to eat, similar to chinicuil worms. Virtually nobody does anymore.

“If I used pesticides and herbicides,” says Acosta, “we wouldn’t discover any [worms] on the land in any respect.”

Montiel provides, “And that’s even if we’ve neighbors so shut [using insecticides] that float within the air.” However pesticides additionally kill pollinators like bees, which Acosta and Montiel say should not simply essential for the maguey however for the surroundings generally, together with their different crops.

Whereas agaves reproduce asexually via hijuelos, they’ll additionally reproduce sexually if left to bloom. “I go away some vegetation to flower, like that one there that’s beginning to come up,” says Acosta, pointing to a crooked agave flower stem within the distance, beginning to attain for the sky. “[It’s] for the bats and for the bees. There needs to be pollination.” Cross-pollination results in larger biodiversity and stronger vegetation sooner or later that resist illness and bug infestations extra simply. “Individuals suppose I’m utterly loopy, however we introduced again the fauna right here. Earlier than, there wasn’t any.”

When the solar hits its highest we sit right down to pork and rooster mixiotes, coronary heart of agave tacos, and salsa comprised of chinicuil worms. Their style instantly transports me again to nights spent consuming mezcal and consuming orange slices dusted with worm salt in Mexico Metropolis. The mixiote has a wealthy pasilla chile taste and the meat is so tender it falls off the bone, the mixiote membrane giving it only a trace of earthiness. Montiel passes round tangy requesón cheese with agave honey drizzled on prime for dessert.

In entrance of a mixiote or taco smothered in smoky salsa, on one of many final agave farms within the space, Montiel and Acosta’s reverence for the chinicuiles — regardless of the work they require — is smart. The worms are only one very small a part of the lifetime of a maguey and one small a part of the meals the plant produces. They’re a pest and a chance, essential to the native ecology and regional delicacies. With out farmers like Montiel and Acosta who harvest them as a substitute of eradicating them, their distinctive taste would absolutely disappear from the Mexican culinary lexicon. That might be a disgrace, and a part of a slippery slope: Cease safeguarding endemic wildlife for a second, even an obvious pest, and it’s possible you’ll lose myriad advantages to the land, ecosystem, and tradition.

As Cruz places it, “I feel individuals are beginning to suppose much more about what they eat. And that easy act of interested by what we’re consuming helps us to resolve what sorts of meals are greatest for us.”

Lydia Carey is a contract author and writer of Mexico Metropolis Streets: La Roma.
Sergio Henao is the proprietor of Bolero Basement Cafe and infrequently takes photographs as Carey’s sidekick. Each are based mostly in Mexico Metropolis.