Down in Panda & Sons’ lab, housed within the basement of close by sibling bar Nauticus, proprietor Iain McPherson tinkers together with his array of freezing tools. The Edinburgh-based bartender pulls trays of fruit from his high-tech industrial freeze dryer. “Do that,” he says, providing a style of dehydrated apple whereas eyeing his Tefcold chest freezer. On this tremendous freezer, which might attain excessive temperatures (as little as –50°C), McPherson retains chrome steel growlers and ice coolers, every full of elements to which he has utilized his modern subzero strategies like “switching” and “sous pression.” Poking round McPherson’s lab—illuminated by a neon blue signal that reads “Mind Melting Society”—is like taking a tour of Mr. Freeze’s bunker.
With a few tutorial levels within the science of ice cream, McPherson has devoted the previous few years to creating mind-bending freezing strategies and making use of them to cocktails. The fruits of his efforts is Panda & Sons’ award-winning cocktail menu entitled Transcend, which is split into 4 sections by method: “Switching,” “Sous Pression,” “Freeze Drying” and “Cryo Focus.” For individuals who wish to dip their toes into the ice-cold waters of McPherson’s processes, the final method is most replicable.
“Cryo focus, often known as ‘freeze focus,’ is the OG subzero taste method,” explains McPherson. The tactic includes freezing a liquid—reminiscent of blended fruit—and eradicating the water content material, leading to “a extra concentrated and flavorful liquid.” McPherson additionally likes to check with the method as “freeze ripening” as a result of it’s akin to natural ripening: Water content material decreases, sugar and acids enhance. That is the strategy that Panda & Sons makes use of to make the Crimson Panda, considered one of its cult-favorite cocktails, served on the bar because it opened in 2013. The savory drink, which is now on its second iteration, is a twist on the Crimson Snapper (a gin-based Bloody Mary) made with Thai flavors which are impressed by McPherson’s time dwelling in Thailand.
“The two.0 nonetheless has the identical elements as the unique as a result of we needed to remain true to the traditional with its aromatic, refreshing, spicy, umami and zingy taste,” says McPherson. “However this time, we needed to indicate how, with cryo focus, we are able to pull out totally different taste profiles from elements.”
To prep the tomato factor, McPherson pours store-bought tomato juice right into a 4-liter insulated cooler. As soon as stuffed, the cooler is saved in an upright freezer set to –10°C (14°F) for twenty-four to 30 hours in order that the juice partially freezes; a layer of frozen watery tomato juice rests on prime of the unfrozen concentrated juice. McPherson removes the frozen layer, forsaking an amplified tomato part that’s extra flavorful and plush in texture, and might keep colder for longer due to the decreased water content material.
Consistent with the standard Crimson Snapper construction, the tomato juice is paired with Tanqueray No. Ten gin that’s been infused with recent cucumber and torn makrut lime leaves so as to add an fragrant freshness to the cocktail. A proprietary spice combine in addition to salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce and lemon juice are additionally added earlier than the drink is thrown to aerate and dilute it. The ultimate improve to the bar’s unique Crimson Panda comes within the type of Guinness foam.
Whereas the 1.0 model of the drink was served with a float of Guinness on prime, McPherson says that the two.0’s Guinness foam “provides a stunning smooth bitterness to the drink, which slowly evolves as you sip.” To make the froth, McPherson combines Guinness with xanthan gum, a meals foaming agent, and a few black meals coloring for a extra distinct visible attraction. The combination is then chilled and disbursed through an iSi whipper after being charged with an N2O (nitrous oxide) cartridge.
McPherson feels the tweaks made to the second era of the drink have a big effect. The brand new model “tastes just like the 1.0, however all souped up,” he says. The indulgent Crimson Panda 2.0 balances vibrant citrusy aromatics, umami from the tomato, a success of savory-sour warmth from the spice combine and a fragile bitterness and textural nuance from the froth.
McPherson will proceed to delve into the comparatively unexplored depths of subzero strategies; he feels his latest improvements are solely the tip of the iceberg. “Over the subsequent few years, new strategies could also be realized, which can allow us to enhance our cocktails, such because the Crimson Panda 2.0, much more,” he says. However for now, “Crimson Panda 2.0 isn’t going wherever quickly.”
