Belief Bulgari to kick off excessive jewelry season in probably the most epic manner. Held in Venice on the extraordinary Palazzo Ducale, the two-night extravaganza noticed the great and glamorous flock to the Floating Metropolis to rejoice the home’s new Mediterranea excessive jewelry assortment. And for over 40 years, one exceptional girl has been chargeable for realising the Roman jeweller’s fantastical creations: Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s Jewelry Inventive Director. Recent off the home’s magnificent exhibiting, we sit down with Silvestri to debate the Mediterranea excessive jewelry assortment, her favorite items from the gathering and her upcoming adventures.
The theme of this yr’s excessive jewelry assortment is Mediterranea. I needed to ask you you probably have a selected reminiscence you like that’s linked to the Mediterranean.
I’ve so many recollections concerning the Mediterranean, from Rome to Sicily to Greece, to Africa. It’s a journey, and I beloved this theme from the start, as a result of it’s a journey. And all of the locations that impressed me, I’ve been there many occasions, ranging from Rome and Naples, Palermo, Greece, so it’s very inspiring.
How would you describe the spirit of this excessive jewelry assortment?
It’s a mix of cultures. We’ve a variety of nations across the Mediterranean, and it’s actually a mix of cultures. So as an example, and that is an instance of among the finest combos [NB: see photo below] — once I began to consider this necklace, I began with mandarin garnets that jogged my memory of the deserts of Morocco, and the flavour and spices of Morocco. I believed that it may very well be the appropriate mixture — this very sparkly, heat [stone], filled with solar and fiery color — with one thing extra delicate, and on this case, we use citrines.
It’s the primary time that we used mandarin garnets and citrines collectively in excessive jewelry — it’s a brand new mixture. Yearly, we now have a brand new mixture, and this yr, that is one in every of these new combos. The concept may be very a lot Morocco: its desert, dunes and spices. And right here, there’s Venice, with the home windows — the motif is from Venice — so that is actually a mix between two cultures. I like the concept of this mixture and the craftsmanship. It’s actually wonderful. It’s a chunk of artwork.
It’s great. You’ll be able to take a look at it from the entrance and the again.
I find it irresistible, that is my favorite necklace. I began from the gems: I purchased the gems one after the other, after which we lower them in an ideal manner, in a Bulgari manner. Now, it’s our masterpiece.
My subsequent query additionally pertains to gem stones, since you’ve at all times stated that gem stones are at all times the centre of your concepts. What had been a few of your favorite gem stones to work inside this assortment?
This assortment? It’s very troublesome… I like this one [NB: see photo below] as a result of it has greater than 200 carats of emeralds and I like this one particularly as a result of I adopted the chopping of the gem. In the beginning, once I noticed the gem, it was not polished, not lower, and I mentioned with the proprietor of the gem as a result of I noticed a sugarloaf and he was fascinated by a faceted stone. So I attempted to persuade them that for Bulgari, one of the best ways to make use of the gem was making it a sugarloaf, and ultimately, I satisfied him that this was one of the best ways, with these very clean corners. It isn’t sharp, it is extremely female, very mild, and so we may take into consideration a really mild, elegant necklace. And it’s versatile, so you may put on it with out the emerald or the pearls, or collectively.
Extremely transformable as properly. What’s your favorite piece in the entire assortment?
It’s troublesome, however I like this one [NB: See below].
Due to all of the combos of the mandarin garnets and every little thing?
Sure, as a result of the inspiration was so distinctive.
And what was probably the most difficult piece to make on this assortment?
Each piece may be very difficult [laughs]. We wish to have a problem from the craftsmanship, from the artistic viewpoint. The Serpenti may be very difficult, as a result of the craftsmanship evolves yearly, and yearly it will get higher. So, every little thing is a problem.
I’m positive you’ve travelled to Venice many occasions. What are a few of your favorite locations to go to in Venice?
The Palazzo Ducale is known as a shock for me. I’ve seen the Palazzo Ducale many occasions, however yesterday and the day earlier than yesterday, that room [NB: the Sala dello Scrutinio] was wonderful, so inspiring. That was my first time, so I used to be trying on the ceiling and I dreamed about new necklaces, new rings and new earrings and a complete assortment in a single evening.
So we would see a group impressed by Venice sooner or later?
My inspiration comes from travelling. Venice is one place [that inspires me], and, after all, Rome. I can’t neglect that Rome is at all times our first supply of inspiration.
I’m at all times very struck by your very tactile strategy in the case of designing. Once I was watching Contained in the Dream final yr, I noticed that you simply picked up the gems, you performed round with it, blended and matched them. I’m very to know, why do you continue to do what you do? Why are you continue to impressed to maintain designing?
As a result of I like what I do. It’s probably not a job, it’s a ardour — and I really feel which you could really feel the fervour behind our jewelry. We proceed to do it with an ideal ardour, not solely due to me, however as a result of our group — and all of the groups round me — are passionate. From artisans, to designers, to the consumers, we do it with pleasure. We benefit from the power of the gems, and we can’t neglect that we’re working with a present from nature. This reward makes me comfortable, so I’m comfortable to work each time. I don’t work, I play.
And for my final query: you journey a lot. So the place are you off to subsequent? What will probably be your subsequent journey?
My subsequent journey is just not actually an journey, however I’m visiting Japan due to the excessive jewelry presentation there. I like Japan.
This text first appeared on Grazia Singapore.
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