There are two elements to this piece: one, Fred; two, chalkstripes. Given it is a evaluate, let’s do the primary one first.
That is the primary piece of tailoring Fred Nieddu has made for me, having beforehand made a extra uncommon piece, a belted suede jacket, in 2023.
I used to be eager to strive Fred’s tailoring largely due to the model, which I had seen on others and admired. There’s a modernism in his reduce that features a good diploma of self-awareness, however is expressed in small issues like shoulder width or physique match: there isn’t any striving for a extra apparent model, and it isn’t only a mixture of two or three different cuts, like a Florentine prime half with a Neapolitan backside one.
Fred additionally simply has model himself, which helps so much. He is thinking about clothes, and is perhaps within the chopping room sporting a knee-length shirt from 45R, or be sporting the fireman’s coat from Actual McCoy’s over his tailoring.
It will be straightforward to see this as merely liking and shopping for an excessive amount of clobber, but it surely’s putting what number of tailors (even craftsman as a complete) have little curiosity in model.
We had three fittings and most elements went very easily. There have been, nonetheless, pretty important points with the precise shoulder.
This is part of my physique tailors usually wrestle with, as they have a tendency to underestimate how a lot decrease it’s than the opposite, and its ahead rotation. That rotation was at all times the realm John Hitchcock at A&S had issues with.
Fred raised the shoulder at our second becoming, and this improved the state of affairs however did not repair it. In the long run just a little additional padding was put in on that facet to get to the ultimate, stable match proven right here.
I do not discover the padding, and a few tailors would even need to put additional on that facet anyway, to make them even. I choose to not, but it surely’s not a giant problem.
It’s an instance of the form of factor that must be anticipated and excellent on a second go well with – after which from then onwards, for evermore. Which as I at all times say, is why bespoke makes by far probably the most sense in the long term.
These smaller elements of the match are additionally much less vital to me than the model of the go well with, which was excellent and precisely what I hoped for.
The jacket has a comparatively broad lapel (4 inches, measured horizontally from the lapel level) however that is underplayed by the pretty small notch – proportionate, maybe, on a 3 inch lapel, however just a little smaller on this bigger one.
The shoulders are very pure, with a really skinny pad and simply that little additional on the finish of the precise one. However they’re just a little prolonged, with the padding serving to them attain only a centimetre or two past the purpose of my shoulder bone.
I can see how somebody would have a look at a straight-on image of the reduce, and assume it had no form. That the shoulders must be squarer, the waist reduce nearer to eke out as a lot of a distinction with the shoulders as potential.
However as quickly as you see the go well with from a pure angle, I believe the flattering form of it turns into obvious. Take a look at the picture under, for instance – the width throughout the shoulders, the pretty unfastened again, after which the neat skirt ending simply on the backside of the seat. It is a reduce that’s doing every part for me – making me way more than I truly am – and wouldn’t be improved by larger shoulders.
The ending on the go well with can also be superb – a number of the greatest you’ll see amongst English tailors.
Neat, hand-sewn buttonholes, with a equally neat Milanese buttonhole on the lapel. Properly top-stitched lining inside, with the additional effort made to chop the dealing with in a beautiful loop across the inbreast pocket.
I even just like the small ‘Taillour’ label sewn under that inbreast pocket. I can see some purists preferring to not have any seen label – as most Savile Row fits historically had – however when it’s this delicate and hand-done it’s engaging. Plus it’s an individual and a model I really feel a connection to.
So why a chalkstripe, and a brown one at that?
I’ve remarked previously that chalkstripes are just a little showy, and they’re within the context we’ve got often talked about – in an workplace, dressed pretty conservatively and professionally.
However because the scope of the garments we have talked about on PS has expanded, so has the variation in contexts, in conditions, and so the importance of when and the place issues are being worn.
This is able to be a horrible alternative for a enterprise go well with, as it will draw an excessive amount of consideration. Despite the fact that enterprise workplaces themselves are altering, the precept of garments not being any form of focus stays.
However in case you’re in a way more inventive area, and wish one thing to decorate up in – one thing that displays and even expresses your creativity – this gray/brown chalkstripe can be nice.
It is uncommon but it surely hardly shouts throughout the room. On the subtle-showy scale it most likely ranks a 4, if the charcoal enterprise go well with is a 1, and that lime-green factor you noticed on the Oscars is 9. (I do know readers love numbers.)
It places a spin on conventional clothes – significantly worn with black, as right here – and will get extra fascinating the nearer you get. At which level you begin to discover the feel of the material, the draped reduce, or the hand ending.
In fact, it is also simply nice in case you’re not dressing for work in any respect. Wherein case it is perhaps good for night, once more significantly with black. (Although looking back I believe a black Dartmoor would have regarded nicer, extra relaxed than this linen shirt.)
Different garments proven:
- Black linen shirt, bespoke by D’Avino
- Black crocodile belt with brass buckle, Rubato
- Yellow-gold Reverso watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre
- Black ‘Piccadilly’ loafers by Edward Inexperienced, in ‘utah’ leather-based
Taillour is Fred Nieddu, a bespoke cutter in London, and staff. Extra background right here. They lately moved to a stunning new devoted area at 2 Pecks Yard, Hanbury Avenue in Spitalfields.
Swimsuit costs begin at £4800 (together with VAT) and jackets £3480, whereas My go well with value £5400. The material is VF10 from the Classic Fox bunch, weighing 370/400g.
Pictures: Alex Natt
