Assisi is a younger tailoring home primarily based within the Huam-dong space of Seoul. It was solely established three years in the past, however the tailor that leads it, Kim Min Soo, has been reducing for 15 years.
Like most Korean tailors I’ve seen, the workforce are extra style-conscious than many of the bespoke world, and that was the very first thing that attracted me. The imagery I’d seen was of stylish, drapey tailoring – tasteful but trendy.
I’d additionally heard, nevertheless, that the execution was good, and so once they I had the prospect to satisfy them in Florence this previous January, I took up the chance to have one thing made.
Though they don’t at present journey to Europe or the US, they do cowl a good a part of the PS readership by travelling to Australia, Singapore and Thailand. They usually plan to journey to London, New York and Taipei sooner or later.
In Singapore and Bangkok, Assisi are hosted by The Decorum, which has retailers in each cities. It was they that helped prepare the fittings, they usually had been hyper organised.
I picked out the fabric upfront – an dark-grey herringbone tweed – they usually introduced it to Florence. We met on the Tuesday afternoon for measurements and session, they usually made the jacket up for a primary becoming on Thursday.
They’d hoped to finish the jacket after one becoming, and that first becoming (under) was actually good. As in, the stability was excellent left to proper and again to entrance, each side even (that sounds straightforward, however in fact nobody is symmetrical, as you see as quickly as you placed on a ready-made swimsuit) and an awesome form by the again into the nape of my neck.
In the long run they determined they wanted a second becoming, nevertheless, and once they heard I used to be going to be in Japan, flew there to satisfy me. (In any other case we’d have met once more in Florence this June.)
In Tokyo, once more we wanted another becoming than initially thought. We met at my resort – The Imperial – on the Tuesday, however ended up doing a closing tweak at Sarto Ginza on Thursday (Sarto being an alterations home that they used for the intervening work).
I’ve to say, it was by turns humorous and intimidating having so many individuals watching. At the least in Florence everybody was unfold out round their beneficiant house, however in Tokyo we had been squeezed collectively, all desirous to see how the jacket regarded.
At anyone time there have been two individuals from Decorum, three from Assisi, plus me and the photographer Alex. And Moto after we had been at Sarto.
Folks at all times ask whether or not I get particular remedy, and I’m usually pretty assured that I do not. Not that some won’t attempt particularly laborious, given the end result might be so public, however fairly that I discuss to sufficient different clients that I do know if the product is inconsistent elsewhere.
Plus, in case you’re not a superb tailor it’s laborious to fake. The outcomes are there for all to see, and tailoring will not be that forgiving. You possibly can look good in an ill-fitting shoe, however not a swimsuit.
Nonetheless, when there are 5 completely different individuals trying on the approach your jacket hangs it may be laborious to carry to that perception.
I confess the eye did make it laborious for me to focus on the match and elegance.
In Florence, I initially tried on a jacket belonging to one of many tailors, to get a way of the reduce. They like an even bigger match, with large shoulders and beneficiant lapels. I felt the lapels had been somewhat a lot, so we sketched on some new ones with chalk, decreasing the gorge and narrowing the width.
In Tokyo I lowered the shoulder width. Once more they like a barely dropped shoulder, nevertheless it was erring on the facet of an excessive amount of. You possibly can see the unique width on the left shoulder within the picture under.
It took me a couple of minutes of strolling round and searching on the jacket earlier than I felt assured of the change. It’s at all times good apply to provide the shopper somewhat time and area to do that, as nobody (even me) feels assured of all their opinions straight away. However typically tailors want reminding of this.
Different modifications had been minor, but in addition ran to lowering or shaping. The again wanted extra suppression for instance, and was nonetheless very snug when it had it.
Assisi describe their model as their very own however influenced by southern Italian, with ending and particulars which might be extra Milanese.
On my expertise to this point that appears truthful, however I might add that their model is robust and makes the world of distinction. It’s so refreshing to be surrounded by a workforce of tailors the place you’ll fortunately gown like every one in all them.
The Milanese affect comes from grasp tailor Kim Min Soo, who is basically self-trained however went to Milan at one level to be taught beneath Paulo Rentini. He educated the remainder of the workforce, which contains six tailors and one director.
I’ll overview the finished jacket in a few weeks. I may also look to one thing broader on Korean tailoring, as this expertise actually justifies it – bettering significantly on my earlier expertise with B&Tailor’s then agent in Europe.
Assisi bespoke fits begin at $2,950 and jackets $2,300. Trunk reveals are carried out by The Decorum in Singapore and Bangkok, and thru The Finery Firm in Sydney.
The fabric is Harris Tweed C001L, which I chosen primarily based on seeing this image of a made-up jacket. Every time I can nowadays, I fee tailoring once I’ve seen one thing made up. It reduces the possibilities of errors a lot.
Overview of the completed jacket coming in a few weeks.
