“Think about Helmut Newton browsing,” Arturo Obegero mentioned forward of the presentation of his spring assortment. Certainly, one might think about his sensual and streamlined designs interesting to the photographer.
In “Evening Surfer,” the Paris-based designer appeared again to his youthful days browsing on the northeastern shoreline of Spain, the place his household relies. Though by his personal admission he most well-liked a chat on the shore, he tapped into the watersport’s wardrobe, juxtaposing formfitting shapes and liquid-looking draping that nodded to the waves.
Standouts included a rework of his high-waisted signature trousers in crisp linen; toweling teased into structured tops that may, by means of time and use, conform to the physique like a second pores and skin, and a high-neck costume with a removable draped skirt — a glamorous depiction of a surfer contemporary from the water and wrapped in a towel.
After moving into final season’s life like route, Obegero mentioned he’d wished to double down on the tailoring that put his model on the map, whereas discovering different methods to provide visible oomph. There have been near-abstract waves as prints, a novelty launched right here, alongside craft-intensive elaborations equivalent to dotting silicone on a mesh prime as water drops or hand-embroidered seafoam that took some 23 hours to execute.
There’s a cannier reasoning behind these developments. An rising a part of Obegero’s enterprise comes from bespoke orders, notably from artists like Harry Kinds, as seen within the “As It Was” clip, and Irish singer-songwriter Roísín Murphy, who wore a bespoke silver jumpsuit final Could on tour for her new album “Hit Parade.”
Such collaborations are artistically fulfilling for the Paris-based designer nevertheless it’s additionally “what saved us” by injecting a lot wanted funds into his scrappy younger enterprise, he mentioned plainly.
Whereas he’s planning on persevering with to mine this vein of “prêt-à-couture, this concept of on a regular basis items that also have a element that makes them particular,” Obegero is just not against the thought of couture. “I might like to do couture. My cellphone is obtainable, if anybody wants a artistic director with a imaginative and prescient.”
