Alessandro Sartori is a fan of the Formulation One races. He have to be—he’s been travelling right here for the Singapore Grand Prix since 2018, taking within the race from the highest of The Fullerton Resort whereas Zegna holds a by-invite-only trunk present and occasion throughout race weekend. It has turn into a type of Zegna custom with mates of the model flown in from across the area to revel within the environment yearly. You’ll see mannequins wearing Zegna and racks of garments positioned across the suite however nobody is pushing for a sale—at the least not on the night of the finals.
I don’t suppose Sartori cares a lot for it too.
It’s not that the inventive director of Zegna isn’t notably keen on heading a worthwhile enterprise; he is aware of that his directional menswear designs promote. And so they do. Zegna Group’s preliminary first-half revenues for 2023 reached greater than EUR900 million, of which Zegna-branded merchandise (Sartori-designed items in addition to licensed merchandise) account for EUR541 million, a 27.3 per cent improve from the yr earlier than.
All the pieces that Sartori has been doing level to the year-end financials seeking to be simply as promising.
The latest trunk present in Singapore was a celebration of Zegna’s traceable Oasi Cashmere assortment and its debut collaboration with Los Angeles-based model The Elder Statesman. “It was very natural. We didn’t suppose to collaborate. [laughs] I met Greg (Chait of The Elder Statesman) by way of frequent mates. I used to be in love along with his assortment as a result of I really like the homemade-handmade aesthetic. He was really doing issues with a really grandmother high quality, ?” Sartori tells me.
Zegna’s experience in cashmere led Chait—who was in Italy to supply for the fabric—to Sartori on the advice of a mutual buddy. A one-and-a-half-hour espresso assembly later, Sartori invited Chait to go to the model’s headquarters Oasi Zegna, whereas he was invited to go to The Elder Statesman atelier in Los Angeles. They realised that they each share the identical values and determined to speak about collaborating a yr after.
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The Zegna x The Elder Statesman assortment is just not one you’ll anticipate from Zegna. It’s a burst of colors in distinction to Zegna beneath Sartori the place using colors is extra keenly calculated and monochromatic in nature. It’s additionally extra tactile within the sort of “grandmother high quality” that The Elder Statesman is thought for. However what’s really Zegna is within the stage of workmanship, the posh leisurewear aesthetic, and naturally, using Oasi Cashmere all through the gathering.
Sartori says that the aim was to be very exact in what would find yourself on the ultimate line-up. “If we thought that the garment was not good for The Elder Statesman or for Zegna, we edited. And we edited stunning items however the aesthetic was an excessive amount of of this or that, or too unusual,” he explains.
The consequence was a group with every look hanging a steadiness between Italian savoir-faire and luxurious coupled with a laid-back Californian vibe.
The truth that that is solely the third big-name collaboration that Zegna has produced makes it an trade outlier. Whereas trend manufacturers massive and small proceed to seemingly churn out buzzy collaborations at the least as soon as a season, Zegna launched its first collaboration—an exceptional one at that with Worry of God—solely in 2020. One would possibly say the model was merely late to the sport, however Sartori by no means felt the necessity to sustain.
“I used to be very shocked Zegna collaborated with Worry of God, as a result of it was the first-ever and I all the time felt just like the model didn’t have to go that route,” I inform Sartori.
“You prefer it?”
“I beloved it. I attempted to purchase a chunk however it was offered out all over the place.”
Based on Sartori, he nonetheless receives requests to supply extra of that landmark collaboration. When requested if the success of his first collaboration created strain for him to do extra, Sartori was fast to dismiss it. “I may have executed lots however I don’t need to. I need to do what we really feel is true for the model, one thing that has that means and connection to the work we do,” he says. “We don’t do collaborations to earn money. In fact, we want them to promote as a result of should you don’t, meaning you don’t ship. However they’re made with the aim of connecting totally different communities.”
With Zegna x The Elder Statesman, the concept of bridging totally different communities not solely refers back to the two totally different prospects of each manufacturers, but in addition to amplify the chances of creation utilizing Zegna’s wonderful high quality and traceable cashmere. Oasi Cashmere is one among two materials sustainability efforts that Zegna is investing closely on presently—the opposite is Oasi Lino, traceable linen for the hotter months. The great thing about immediately proudly owning various Italian material mills permits Zegna to manage the manufacturing of textiles proper from the supply, together with the origins of the uncooked materials itself. “I say this very often these days, ‘In the future, a era will come up the place if a garment isn’t tagged with a digital passport, they received’t purchase it’,” Sartori opines. He likens it to the meals trade the place manufacturing particulars are intensive and clear on labels.
Earlier than you deem this as merely Zegna leaping on the sustainability bandwagon that each different trend model is on, the very foundations of the model is rooted in caring for the surroundings and neighborhood. It goes again to 1910 with founder Ermenegildo Zegna planting the primary tree within the space surrounding his mill. And about 20 years later, he constructed a 26-kilometre highway to make Oasi Zegna accessible to the area people and hyperlink them to its pure environment, offering a public area for leisure and out of doors actions amongst nature.
“I’m nearly shocked that Zegna had by no means spoken about Oasi Zegna earlier than,” Sartori expresses. “We thought it was a mistake and one thing we wanted to speak as a result of it’s the sincere and genuine imaginative and prescient of the corporate.”
It’s one of many uncommon cases in our interview that Sartori agrees that if there’s one thing the model must be “louder” about, this might be it.
On Sartori’s half, it had already been a tenet for his designs. He sees sustainability as greater than merely utilizing recycled supplies—Zegna continues to take action with its #UseTheExisting fabrications constituted of recycled sources—or one-off capsule collections. To Sartori, it’s a mindset that goes all the way down to the very make of a garment. He cites the instance of the very fundamentals of tailoring: high quality building made to final. From the stitchings of the shoulders to how a buttonhole is made, the whole lot must be constructed with the concept that it ought to final for a really very long time.
“If I designed a jacket that after three years doesn’t maintain collectively and breaks throughout journey, I wouldn’t have executed my job. The aim is so that you can put on a jacket that after 15 years might need somewhat gap, however stays utterly wearable. That’s my dream,” he says.
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Sartori calls this “designing for sustainability”, the place there must be some foresight in setting up a garment in ways in which would enable it to final, in addition to have the potential for being recycled. A jacket constructed with loads of fusing, as an illustration, wouldn’t be recyclable as a result of disassembling it’s close to inconceivable.
Whereas seasonality remains to be obvious in Zegna’s collections, Sartori doesn’t design particular to every season. The collections have been streamlined such that concepts transcend seasons, however nonetheless rooted in a particular aesthetic that he’s crafted to be Zegna’s model of recent tailoring. It’s unabashedly louche and relaxed with foundational components consisting of knitwear, the overshirt, the chore jacket, the signature Triple Sew sneakers, voluminous trousers and the like. The look has been constant because the Autumn/Winter 2021 assortment as a part of an evolution that was already within the works however accelerated by Covid.
Within the consistency lies timelessness. You wouldn’t simply half methods with a Zegna piece from one season; there’s seamless integration between items from totally different seasons. Let’s face it, a Zegna piece is an funding that you simply’d need to maintain on to and put on for so long as doable anyway. And Sartori continues to make that simpler.
So sure, Sartori could also be a fan of the Formulation One races. The velocity and the sounds (he’s unfazed by the zooming of automobiles beneath us, audible in direction of the tip of our interview) could thrill him. However at his core, he’s not one to condone pointless velocity, however a nonetheless, calm drive that pushes forward with intention.
This text was first seen on ESQUIRE Singapore’s October 2023 Subject.
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