Albert Kriemler Blended Poppy and Chook Motifs With Utility at Akris – WWD


Akris simply wrapped its year-long a centesimal anniversary celebrations, and the tentpole exhibition concerning the St. Gallen-based vogue model at Switzerland’s high design museum, the Museum für Gestaltung Zurich, clocked almost 27,000 guests, a brand new report, earlier than it closed on Sept. 24.

The show targeted on Albert Kriemler‘s inventive course of and significantly the final 15 years, when creative collaborations and technical wizardry got here to the fore.

The designer has confirmed that he has prescient visible instincts. For instance, he shined a highlight on Reinhard Voigt’s pixelized oil work from the ’60s and ’70s, and included them into his fall 2022 designs, lengthy earlier than the motif appeared in Loewe and Louis Vuitton collections.

“It’s pure feeling, truthfully,” the modest Kriemler stated throughout a preview of his spring 2024 lineup, when requested how he selects the artists that encourage him.

For spring, he settled on Felice “Lizzi” Rix-Ueno, having seen an exhibition devoted to the late textile, wallpaper and craft designer on the MAK Museum of Utilized Arts in Vienna.

Kriemler defined that this key member of the Wiener Werkstätte, or Vienna Workshop, motion additionally spent a lot of her profession in Japan and is prized for colourful, vibrant and charming designs — just like the poppy, fruit, fowl and tassel motifs that peppered the Akris assortment.

The designer was additionally impressed by Rix-Ueno’s perception that “via craft, you possibly can develop your fantasy.”

Behind Kriemler’s typically easy designs lies an intensive research of superb material, whether or not it’s stiff organza for weightless tailoring, high-twist linen for wrinkle-resistant shirt jackets that seem like pale denim, or a beautiful cotton voile for draped shirts.

The gathering added extra gas to the utility stylish pattern and the floral motifs all around the Paris runways, however completed within the refined, restrained Akris manner.

This was a cultured, stylish and sprightly present, with stay music and a set of material flowers. Fantasy got here within the type of crimson cotton guipure resembling pressed poppies and minimalist night seems with lengthy, glistening fringe.

Akris enters its second century on a robust observe.

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