Additional! Additional! – Eater


After three years of darkness, preceded by a kinda bummer 5 of schmancy, frowny meals — you realize, blond wooden, backless barstools, the whole lot is foraged, and the chef glowers silently — eating places are enjoyable once more. Transfer over, sea buckthorn (you tart berry). Helllooooo, caviar bumps, cocaine of the ocean! Every thing is illuminated…with neon lights. Everyone seems to be seated in large hand-shaped chairs or squiggly legged ones. Glasses are bird-shaped and stippled and vivid. Plates are your grandmother’s most florid. There’s sufficient gold leaf to make a forest. And the meals, surprisingly nonetheless necessary, is a bass-amped banger of affect and extra. Something that may be accomplished tableside is. And with brio.

Not solely are eating places enjoyable once more, they’re, like, actually enjoyable — like over-the-top Decline and Fall of Roman Civilization maximalist enjoyable. Why? Myriad the explanations, many the elements. Might or not it’s as a result of the world’s ending anyway? (Local weather change! Warfare! Financial inequality! Why not exit with cheese pulls and flaming bananas?) Or may it simply be the identical human starvation for pleasure that’s animated our sort since prelapsarian instances, now simply supercharged with capital and amphetamined by social media? Regardless, like a catnipped kitty chasing a laser pointer, we the individuals are each jazzed and curious. So Eater went maximalist to the hilt. We went on a gonzo psycho-gustatory pilgrimage to the Land The place Extra Started: Las Vegas. We paid a go to to Molly Baz, whose new cookbook, Extra Is Extra, is an ode to going huge, for all of the cae sals and gorgigi sandos you possibly can think about. We discovered the hands-down most Large-Time Enjoyable eating places in America. We ate all of the ’roni cups and rib eyes. We bought full. We bought sick. We bought blissful. We had enjoyable to the max. — Joshua David Stein

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A flaming saute pan sits next to a man in a white chefs coat slicing meat.

A professional dishes on the final word tableside flex


A neon green, marble swirled table holds an assortment of dishes in patterned dishes, and a kewpie doll.

Day-Glo sconces! Gordo grinders! Dangling pothos!


A chocolate muffin studded with diamonds sits on a colorful purple patterned backdrop.

What occurs once we solely eat one of the best half?


Gold sparkles glitter around a collage of hands holding elaborate fancy cocktails.

Consuming within the golden age of golden ages


A Golden Age still life painting shows a table spread with a giant lobster, lush fruits, a meat pie, a parrot, and more.

Going huge with meals is nothing new — simply ask the Egyptians


A server’s hands lift the dome off a plate of lamb chops, with a graphic background of fancy foods like oysters, as well as a globe.

From seafood towers to gold leaf tomahawks, discover maps to probably the most over-the-top consuming throughout America


Credit

Editorial lead: Joshua David Stein
Undertaking supervisor: Lesley Suter
Artistic director: Nat Belkov
Contributors: Matt Buchanan, Cathy Chaplin, Farley Elliott, Olee Fowler, Jackie Gutierrez-Jones, Brooke Jackson-Glidden, Twine Jefferson, Rachel P. Kreiter, Matt Lardie, Clair Lorell, Bettina Makalintal, Melissa McCart, Amy McCarthy, Laura Neilson, Emma Orlow, Tierney Plumb, Adam Reiner, Lauren Saria, Jaya Saxena, Katie Shapiro, Courtney E. Smith, Susan Stapleton, Candice Woo
Editors: Talia Baiocchi, Rachel P. Kreiter, Lesley Suter
Designer: Lille Allen
Copy editor: Leilah Bernstein
Truth checker: Kelsey Lannin
Engagement editors: Kaitlin Bray, E Jamar, Kristen Kornbluth
Photographers: Denise Crew, Rick R. Ledesma
Animators: Judson Valdez, Molly Valdez
Particular due to: Monica Burton, Erin DeJesus, John Farrell, Missy Frederick, Amanda Kludt, Ellie Krupnick, Jess Mayhugh, Janelle Miller, Ryan Norton, Stephanie Wu, Jessie Yarborough

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