Tucked down a quiet, winding lane in central Taipei, Chán Shífāng (饞食坊) is, at first look, simply one other izakaya-style restaurant among the many metropolis’s multitudes. However a white signal with the title, which interprets roughly to “The Gluttonous Eatery” or “Grasping Home of Meals,” catches the attention. The muffled din of younger individuals, deeply enmeshed within the pleasures of food and drinks, attracts you nearer. And as soon as inside, you’ll discover an institution singularly and proudly Taiwanese, with a novel menu that includes solely native alcohol and unabashedly political décor, uncommon for a preferred restaurant inside a tradition usually uncomfortable with direct battle.
A glowing neon signal that reads “glutton” at Taipei’s Chán Shífāng.
Sit down on the slim metallic bar, and the very first thing you’ll discover is a big neon character for the phrase “Glutton” glowing pink on the wall. The chipped, half-tiled flooring, peeling yellow concrete partitions, low stools and folding tables are meticulously curated to present off a nostalgic air, a name again to basic Taiwanese eateries of the Eighties. Extra shocking is the distinguished banner declaring “Freedom for Taiwan” (台灣獨立). Throughout one go to, playing cards exclaiming “Freedom for Hong Kong” lay scattered on a bench. The profile photograph on Chán Shífāng’s Fb web page declares “No Extradition to China” in English. Whereas the teams of chatting mates across the room don’t learn as significantly rebellious, the actual fact that they’re consuming there means the shows don’t shock. The purchasers could even agree.
Chán Shífāng is a brand new breed of bar and restaurant: a stylish Taipei sizzling spot with pro-Taiwan banners and a proudly Taiwanese menu.
To know the importance of those design decisions, it’s value noting that the rising motion of individuals figuring out as Taiwanese is comparatively novel and really divisive. The small island society is influenced by a protracted, advanced historical past of immigration and occupation, and sometimes historic ties are put earlier than geographical ones. A latest and influential demographic change got here in 1949, when the top of the Chinese language Civil Battle introduced Basic Chiang Kai-shek, his military and thousands and thousands of individuals fleeing Mao’s Communist regime. Chiang Kai-shek declared the previously sleepy settlement to be the brand new seat of the Chinese language authorities, and he vowed to reunite Taiwan and mainland China sooner or later. Most of the ethnically Chinese language individuals who had relocated to Taiwan and their kids by no means thought-about the island their homeland. Taiwan was the place they lived, not the place they had been from.
Increasingly more of the present era feels otherwise. Younger individuals as we speak usually outline themselves as Taiwanese first, and with that identification comes extra delight of place, much less eager for one thing throughout the ocean. They’re not ready for a reunion, and in reality, reject the very concept of it.
Chán Shífāng solely affords alcohol that is made in Taiwan.
After all, China considers Taiwan a province gone rogue. Whereas there have been different pro-Taiwan actions, this present wave feels extra pressing due to China’s more and more bellicose overtures towards invasion, an upcoming election in Taiwan and the attendant uncertainty. There are few nations left with official diplomatic ties to the Taiwanese authorities. Residents of Taiwan are able the place they have to contemplate what they need their future to appear like, and what they contemplate their identification to be. In that context, Chán Shífāng is a brand new breed of bar and restaurant: a stylish Taipei sizzling spot with pro-Taiwan banners, and a menu that solely affords alcohol made in Taiwan.
A handwritten signal notes that this is not the standard Japanese-style izakaya, of which there are numerous across the metropolis, remnants of when Japan occupied Taiwan between 1895 and 1945.
The drinks menu contains fruity, aromatic plum wine from central Taiwan’s mountainous Nantou, a sake-style drink from central Taiwan’s industrial powerhouse, Taichung, and Kavalan whisky from the bamboo-covered hills of jap Taiwan’s Yilan. There’s even particular small-batch rum and brandy made in a tiny city within the mountains proper outdoors of Taipei.
However the quick listing of xiǎo mǐjiǔ (小米酒), or millet wine, most clearly speaks to Chán Shífāng’s Taiwan-first narrative. The highest of the part reads: “Since we solely promote Taiwanese alcohol, how on earth may we not promote genuine [Indigenous] Millet Wine?”
Xiǎo mǐjiǔ, a Taiwanese millet wine, has a popularity as an unsophisticated homebrew and isn’t extensively distributed, even inside Taiwan, but it surely seems on the menu at Chán Shífāng.
Taiwan’s Indigenous teams and their merchandise have traditionally been regarded down upon, discriminated towards or changed into vacationer curiosities. However the progress of Taiwan delight has coincided with a reappreciation for the island’s unique inhabitants. Taiwan has 16 formally acknowledged Indigenous teams, and every has a god or goddess devoted to millet and its personal model of xiǎo mǐjiǔ.
At its most conventional, xiǎo mǐjiǔ is made utilizing a kind of cereal grass akin to quinoa, which is steamed, blended with brewer’s yeast and left to ferment for round a month. As we speak, the wine is usually brewed with glutinous rice, which is simpler and faster to ferment. It has a popularity as an unsophisticated homebrew, candy to the purpose of treacly and eye-crossingly robust. It’s not extensively distributed, even inside Taiwan. It’s definitely not usually discovered at hip bars and eating places round Taipei, the place drink menus are dominated by craft beer, European wine lists and elaborate craft cocktails with smoky prospers which are offered to tables the place diners clap in adulation.
At Chán Shífāng, xiǎo mǐjiǔ is served from a carafe alongside widespread dishes meant to be shared.
Chán Shífāng affords 4 xiǎo mǐjiǔ choices. The primary, with the bottom ABV (10 p.c), is brewed with inexperienced plums. Its sweetness is paying homage to a Sauternes or Tokaji wine, the viscosity minimize with a tart fruitiness. The subsequent is fermented with rice and has the sweetness and aroma of toasted rice. The third, which has solely millet, no rice, is taken into account probably the most genuine; its make-up results in a cleaner, drier mouthfeel. The ultimate is an aged model that, at 33 p.c ABV, is described as “for these in a rush” (presumably to get drunk).
The home specialty is a dish consisting of thick chewy noodles laced with numbing spice (proper), a preferred accompaniment to xiǎo mǐjiǔ.
Every is served in a small glass carafe, together with a sweating container of ice. It’s greatest loved slowly, paired with a protracted parade of small sharing plates. The flavors of Chán Shífāng’s complementary dishes draw inspiration from southern Taiwan, with a little bit of Japanese affect and a private aptitude. Unadorned chewy noodles shock with a fiery chew of white pepper and numbing spice (花椒面). A complete fish, roasted in salt over coals, is juicy beneath its smoking pores and skin (烤魚). A comforting bowl of rice is drizzled with long-stewed pork, and known as, merely, “The Examine Overseas Scholar’s Model of Stewed Pork” (留學生滷肉飯). They are saying there’s a narrative behind the title, but it surely’s for one more time.
Chán Shífāng affords 4 xiǎo mǐjiǔ choices together with an aged model described as “for these in a rush” (presumably to get drunk).
Xiǎo mǐjiǔ and lots of the different Taiwanese drinks on Chán Shífāng’s listing can’t but be discovered off the island, however with the growing recognition of Taiwanese meals in America, maybe drinks are quickly to observe. For now, although, locations like Chán Shífāng act as a bellwether for the present and future developments of the island nation. It’s not solely a comforting place to tuck into food and drinks; its delight of place interprets to a novel spirit of conviviality the place one can toast to Taiwan’s advanced heritage, its future and its Indigenous tradition.
