Likelihood is that the Italian phrase “Malafemmina” won’t ever seem on Duolingo, however it might have turn out to be useful for foreigners attending the Marco Rambaldi present to know why the designer titled his spring 2024 assortment after it.
In Italian dialect, the time period refers to a girl of unwell reputation, fickle in love, or just a prostitute. “We determined to provide a constructive connotation to a time period usually originated as derogatory in direction of ladies and their freedom [and used] by males who primarily concern them,” stated the designer backstage. Finally, what Rambaldi wished to stage was “an incredible bacchanal wherein our ladies and queer solid will be free to be who they wish to be.”
Within the language of trend, this translated into an extra step within the exploration of a extra sensual aspect of his aesthetic, a course of that the designer began final season.
His beloved knitting methods had been profusely deployed to craft seductive cutout silhouettes with the ever-present coronary heart motif, reminding considered one of Rambaldi’s romantic roots, in addition to uneven skirts and barely-there tops hanging from one shoulder.
The designer’s signature crochet was seen on corsetry-inspired or heart-shaped bodices in deadstock leather-based, which in some instances got here with crisscross particulars or chains and fringes for an additional swish as fashions superior barefoot with their footwear in hand.
Slightly than evoking walks of disgrace, the styling selection and the characters’ sluggish tempo and assured strut amplified the sensation of empowerment Rambaldi supposed to ship. Additional delving into the lingerie-inspired narrative, the designer added liquid slipdresses — additionally worn as lengthy skirts mimicking an undressed impact — satin mini frocks and transparencies that made for a easy but compelling counterpoint to his most textural items.
Including to this combine, Rambaldi relied on somewhat assist from AI to develop a spread of mythological prints splashed on pajama-like shirts and boxers, and sprinkled a touch of sparkle with bralettes, pencil skirts and denim pants coated in thermo-adhesive crystals.
