Wine & Dine
Textual content and Images by Mallika Chandra.
Rehan Mehta, 31
East seventh Pizza & Deli
Location: Colaba
Speciality: Pizzas, sandwiches, burgers, puddings
Rehan, inform me about your journey as a chef.
The primary time I went to cooking faculty was after I completed my education in Mumbai. I had taken a spot 12 months in 2010 and I did a three-month course at Le Cordon Bleu London. That have truly made me not need to change into a chef so I went to a liberal arts school within the US, the place I graduated in psychology.
In my third 12 months in school, I occurred to observe a video of Anthony Bourdain (the late celeb chef and journey documentarian) and David Chang (restaurateur and tv character) consuming at one in every of Chang’s New York eating places. That made me need to return to cooking. The truth is, I felt like I simply couldn’t do anything! I enrolled within the cooking faculty David Chang had been to, which was the French Culinary Institute in New York. I had found a course that will enable me to take six months off from school, come again and nonetheless graduate on time. I cherished it there.
The best way it labored in America on the time was that I had three months to discover a job after commencement. So I utilized to a bunch of locations. Lastly, through Craigslist, I acquired a job as a pastry prepare dinner at Momofuku Milk Bar in New York (now referred to as Milk Bar), regardless that it wasn’t what I had particularly educated in. I used to be making cookies, truffles and bread and I nonetheless suppose it’s the perfect job I’ve ever had. Sadly, I needed to go away after a 12 months as a result of they have been unable to sponsor my work visa.
After I returned to Mumbai in 2015, I used to be given a job within the pastry division wherever I utilized due to my expertise at Momofuku Milk Bar. My first job was in Colaba on the modern-American restaurant Ellipsis (now shut), headed by Chef Kelvin Cheung. Chef Kelvin was a Milk Bar fan so he was eager to have me onboard. Sadly, he left the restaurant six months after I joined.
Then, in September 2016, I joined Masque in Mahalaxmi in Mumbai. Chef Prateek Sadhu and co-owner Aditi Dugar acquired in contact with me whereas the restaurant was nonetheless beneath development. Even on my first go to, I may inform the kitchen and the house have been going to be particular. The primary 12 months of Masque was actually attention-grabbing however we have been struggling to determine our fashion or what may make it distinctive. Ultimately, Chef Prateek began digging deeper into his personal Kashmiri roots, and that’s when it actually took off. It made extra sense as a result of it was private and culturally related slightly than simply attempting to be like many different Scandinavian-inspired tasting menu eating places. What I loved most from my time there was the truth that the cooks would serve all of the dishes and acquired to work together with the purchasers, who have been normally enthusiastic about meals, and that made it enjoyable. We additionally had a number of freedom to work on new dishes which stored issues attention-grabbing.
Later, I grew disillusioned with positive eating. I used to be eager on beginning one thing that might feed much more folks. I thought of opening a sandwich store. I did a number of pop-ups and began searching for areas however nothing labored out. On the similar time, I heard concerning the legendary chef Rahul Akerkar opening a brand new restaurant (Qualia) and I utilized for a place within the sizzling kitchen. I used to be accountable for the pasta part, which was superb as a result of I like working with dough and the pasta grew to become actually widespread.
What led you to start out a cloud kitchen and the way did you plan to face out?
Quickly after I left Qualia, the pandemic struck, which rekindled the thought of a sandwich store since folks have been hungry for well-executed consolation meals. There wasn’t actually a Western-inspired sandwich tradition in Mumbai on the time however as a result of folks acquired into baking bread throughout the lockdown, a sandwich tradition was certain to comply with.
My authentic sandwich store thought advanced to incorporate pizza. My pondering was that pizza and sandwiches go hand in hand. I had eaten a number of nice pizza throughout my time in New York, which acquired me obsessed — and throughout the pandemic I began playing around with it, making it at dwelling for my household. It was a no brainer to start out as a cloud kitchen on the time as a result of if there had been one other lockdown, you’ll be caught paying hire for a restaurant with out anybody coming in there. I discovered a spot in Colaba in December 2021.
How did you go about establishing your operations? What did you usher in from previous expertise?
It took me three months to arrange the place. I used to be very finicky concerning the kitchen being a sure means. I needed to discover the best oven. I knew I didn’t need a wood-fired oven, I wished an electrical one. In New York, most of my favorite pizza locations used electrical ovens. Wooden fireplace may be very charming, however I don’t suppose it provides a lot by way of style. I really feel like if in case you have the best electrical oven, the pizza can style simply nearly as good and it’s much more constant, which is essential. Once you’re attempting to churn the pizzas out actually quick and have 10 to fifteen orders at a time, that wood-fired oven goes to be a ache and perhaps a number of will not be going to be nearly as good as the remainder as a result of it’s so exhausting to keep up and management the warmth, not like electrical ovens.
Having mulled over the thought of the sandwich and pizza store for therefore lengthy, what has the menu growth course of been like?
After I began engaged on the recipes, I assumed it will take perhaps a number of weeks or a month, however it took me 5 months simply to determine a pizza dough that I used to be proud of. I did nearly 100 trials. I used to be simply making pizza on daily basis and attempting to determine it out. I by no means imagined how difficult it could possibly be, provided that it’s simply 4 components that you just’re working with. However, the way in which you combine these components, the proportions, how a lot water you add, which flour you utilize, how lengthy you ferment it — all these wanted to be found out. Lastly, I settled on a dough after trial quantity 96. I wished to simplify the dough course of as a result of it’s essential for my crew to have the ability to execute it in addition to I’d. That’s the reason I dominated out a sourdough pizza dough as a result of it has an excessive amount of margin for error. Now, we’re on pizza dough trial quantity 103. The pizza dough recipe remains to be referred to as a trial, regardless that we’ve been open for a 12 months. And we preserve making changes in step with modifications within the climate to get that excellent gentle and ethereal but crispy pizza crust.
Subsequent got here the sandwich bread. We have been outsourcing the bread initially however the numbers didn’t work out. It was simpler to decide on a recipe, however it nonetheless took a number of trials. We use a Vietnamese Bánh mì-style baguette. In comparison with a French baguette, it has a really skinny crust and a fluffy inside. The sandwiches acquired rather a lot higher after we began making our personal bread.
The one factor I knew I had to determine was dessert. Most pizza locations serve dough balls with Nutella and stuff like that. However I wished one thing lighter. I assumed an American-style pudding would match the invoice. Our lemon cheesecake and chocolate puddings do rather well. We had a strawberries-and-cream pudding and one with mango, which have been seasonal and actually widespread. We’re utilizing fancy vanilla beans, however apart from that they’re primarily fruity, creamy and crunchy.
You set out a job opening on Instagram someday again and it communicated rather a lot concerning the work tradition you are attempting to each desist from and construct. Was that intentional?
Most eating places I’ve labored at, the hours have been very lengthy, which has been the benchmark on this business for ages. However I knew I didn’t need to do this. If I used to be doing that and we have been profitable and earning profits, I’d have nonetheless thought-about it a failure as a result of an overworked crew will not be an indication of success. To me, it makes monetary sense as effectively. In the event you push folks so exhausting, they’re simply going to get burnt out and go away in a number of weeks or months, or a 12 months. I’d slightly have folks stick round for the lengthy haul, be joyful, go dwelling and never take into consideration work.
That’s why, in that hiring submit, I used to be express that our shift lasts 10 hours solely. In actuality, it’s solely 9 hours, however I’ve accounted for some further time ought to we often want it. Now, after operating this place for a 12 months and seeing how troublesome it’s to truly become profitable, I see why different restaurateurs demand such lengthy hours from their groups. If restaurant gross sales will not be reaching their goal, the administration by some means feels that making folks work longer hours will enhance gross sales. Nevertheless, whereas gross sales may enhance within the brief time period, if targets will not be met, it’s extra seemingly that there’s a downside with the product or expertise.
Have been you additionally intending to present your prospects an perception into what sort of cloud kitchen it’s and the type of folks which might be making the meals?
That’s not why I posted it and I didn’t give it some thought on the time. I used to be simply attempting to rent candidate. However, in fact, if I have been to see a enterprise posting one thing like this, I’d be extra more likely to strive the meals and would attempt to order typically. Our restaurant business doesn’t have the perfect status. So, anybody who is aware of something about what goes on behind the scenes can be joyful for issues to vary for the higher.
Who’s your typical buyer?
Sadly, most of our orders come from Swiggy they usually don’t share buyer knowledge. It’s protected to guess that most people ordering from us are type of like pizza nerds, which appears to be each third individual these days. Most of our meals is New York-influenced. Those that’ve by no means had this sort of meals are eager to strive it. And those that have been to New York or Philadelphia and have had a cheesesteak sandwich, for instance, will even need to relive that have.
I’ve additionally deliberately not marketed East seventh Pizza & Deli rather a lot as a result of I’m nonetheless tweaking issues. I really feel prefer it’s all the time a piece in progress and I’m type of a perfectionist; and I say that within the worst potential means. I’ll preserve procrastinating with the advertising as a result of I believe perhaps pizza dough trial 104 or 105 would be the excellent one after which we will actually push our advertising. At the moment, advertising has primarily been by way of phrase of mouth.
Is that additionally a results of the title East seventh Pizza & Deli? Your official firm title can also be attention-grabbing.
You would say that. Our official firm title is Very Informal Meals. I got here up with that title after leaving Masque as a result of I used to be simply so uninterested in positive eating. It’s humorous to say that now, since Masque is likely one of the greatest eating places in India. I see myself sticking with quick informal or informal eating places with thoughtfully executed and ingredient-driven meals.
The title East seventh was impressed by the road I lived on in New York. Whereas I used to be in cooking faculty, I lived on East seventh Avenue between 1st Avenue and Avenue A, which is within the East Village. And that one avenue had a lot good meals! You would stroll down the road in 90 seconds however it had a number of nice tiny institutions. And every of them specialised in only one or two issues. There was Luke’s Lobster, which made simply seafood sandwiches. There was a Venezuelan arepas place. The constructing I lived in had an Italian sandwich store referred to as Porchetta, which simply made a roast pork sandwich. Throughout the road was this soft-serve place referred to as Large Homosexual Ice Cream, which bought actually funky comfortable serve. After which there was a Chinese language teahouse the place I’d sit and drink tea. That avenue actually impressed me.
How would you describe what a deli is?
Within the New York sense, it’s your native sandwich place the place you decide lunch up on a piece day however it additionally could possibly be the place you go to get fundamental groceries, perhaps even some baked items, with out having to make a visit to the grocery store. Inside that, there are the bodega-style delis, the place the sandwiches are made merely, utilizing simply packaged components. Then there are the old-school delis, which make every little thing from scratch, like Katz’s Deli, which is known for pastrami. Russ & Daughters is absolutely well-known for his or her smoked fish. The deli tradition got here from the Jewish inhabitants of New York. However now it has change into a pattern that has unfold internationally.
How do you construct belief as a cloud kitchen?
I’m very explicit about conserving the kitchen tremendous clear, and likewise about ensuring that components are at their prime. That sense of hygiene was ingrained in me because of all my earlier work locations. Clearly, our meals security legal guidelines will not be as strict or as strictly enforced over right here in India, as in comparison with New York, however I implement those self same requirements anyway.
How has juggling the roles of chef and enterprise proprietor been for you?
I want I may simply prepare dinner and give attention to the meals as a result of it will be a lot simpler. Half my time is spent managing folks, regardless that I solely have a crew of 9. Simply attempting to maintain all of them on monitor and coaching them retains me considerably occupied.
I’m horrible at advertising. In order that’s one other factor that I want I’d simply not must do. I preserve hoping that if my meals is nice sufficient, I gained’t must do any advertising and folks will simply come anyway. And that’s clearly the dream. In New York, if in case you have an incredible restaurant, even when it’s a tiny one, the phrase goes to unfold so quick that you just’ll have queues down the highway. However over right here, I don’t suppose that’s potential as a result of we’re providing a distinct segment product. Having mentioned that, I’m not essentially attempting to succeed in a large viewers. I’m simply looking for the best individuals who need one thing scrumptious that’s made with care, consideration and good components.
What ended up being simpler than you thought?
I don’t suppose something has been simpler than I assumed. Most issues have been tougher than I assumed. Nevertheless, when somebody tries your meals, particularly if it’s a stranger, and tells you that they cherished it, you are feeling good and you’re feeling prefer it’s all been value it.
What’s the excellent order from East seventh Pizza & Deli?
Our menu will not be very lengthy as a result of I would like each merchandise to be tremendous scrumptious. A Ray’s Cheese Pizza, our model of a margherita with further buffalo mozzarella and parmesan cheese; a Pork Stomach Bánh mì, which is meaty and spicy; and a lemon cheesecake pudding!
Earlier: Kunal Makhija, Arabisque
Subsequent: Kartikeya Ratan and Rishabh Doshi, Kiki & Pastor
